She Brought a Candle to the Thermal Baths

Let’s begin with a truth: Glenda romanticized Budapest before we even landed.
She said things like I’m going to find my melancholy here and Maybe I was Hungarian in another life.

Darling. In that other life, you also didn’t understand the tram schedule.

Day one, she stood on the Széchenyi Chain Bridge like she was in a perfume commercial. Hair tousled, scarf gently menacing the Danube.
A local jogger nearly ran into her. She apologized. To the jogger.
We were off to a strong start.

She had a list: ruin bars, thermal baths, a vintage bookstore, and “a place where I can cry publicly but still look elegant.” (I’m exaggerating here).
We found three of the four. The crying happened in a bakery. The elegance was questionable.

Let’s talk about the thermal baths, because we must.
She packed like she was going to a spa run by angels: silk robe, hair oil, a book she would never open, and—yes—a travel candle.
“Just in case I want ambiance,” she said, placing it in her tote like we were going to a Scandinavian retreat instead of a 100-year-old bathhouse full of elderly men and questionable steam.

She lasted 11 minutes.
The water was hotter than her patience and smelled like ancestral regret.
I don’t think I’m emotionally stable enough to bathe with strangers,” she whispered.

Outside, she bought a chimney cake the size of her head and ate it like it had insulted her.
I didn’t speak. I just handed her a wet wipe and silently judged the universe for letting her buy linen again.

Later, we climbed to Buda Castle. I say “climbed,” but what I mean is I climbed and she slowly reenacted every physical symptom of a woman at war with her own cardio.

At the top, she stood quietly, staring out at the Parliament building like it owed her money.

Do you love it?” I asked.

She sighed. “I don’t know. I think I was hoping for something to click. But I just feel tired.

I nodded. “That’s part of it, sweetheart. That’s the Budapest experience.”

She smiled. Barely.
And we walked down slowly—past statues, tourists, and the heavy, lovely weight of unmet expectations.

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